[Icycharizard]

2016 bmw x1

Noticing no heat the last couple of days. Its cold and wet in Seattle. Nothing crazy has happened, but the heat just doesnt work. It blows cold air. I saw online with quick search it could be the blower motor or the blower motor resistor. Not sure… it blows strong but just no heat. Just kinda weird. Font think ita the thermostat because no check engine light… any ideas?

[TheRiddle]

exchanger heater valve or air into cooling sys?

[Boltokgroq]

Originally Posted by Icycharizard

2016 bmw x1

Noticing no heat the last couple of days. Its cold and wet in Seattle. Nothing crazy has happened, but the heat just doesnt work. It blows cold air. I saw online with quick search it could be the blower motor or the blower motor resistor. Not sure… it blows strong but just no heat. Just kinda weird. Font think ita the thermostat because no check engine light… any ideas?

Interesting, sorry to hear this. If you’re able to run a scan does it give you any codes?

[MJE60]

Originally Posted by Icycharizard

2016 bmw x1

Noticing no heat the last couple of days. Its cold and wet in Seattle. Nothing crazy has happened, but the heat just doesnt work. It blows cold air. I saw online with quick search it could be the blower motor or the blower motor resistor. Not sure… it blows strong but just no heat. Just kinda weird. Font think ita the thermostat because no check engine light… any ideas?

Hi
If you are getting air flow then it is not the blower motor. I would check codes and see if faults thrown up such a sensor problem. Issue will be with air mixing flaps or within heat exchanger, namely the heat exchanger is not getting hot so the cold air is not being heated. My first check would be the mixing flaps, as there are two drives (driver and passenger side) it is unlikely to be flaps themselves so check temp sensor of ventilation system first then heat exchange sensor, then heat exchanger valves. If it is heat exchanger rather than ventilation flaps then the reason why heat exchanger may not be getting hot can be, according to BMW technical/repair ——-

Heat exchanger for heating system

The heat exchanger is located in the heating and air-conditioning unit. The coolant flows through the heat exchanger for heating system and heats it up to the necessary temperature. The fresh air draw in from outside is blown through the heat exchanger for heating system with the help of the blower. During this the heat exchanger for heating system transfers its heat to the air flowing by. The heated air then flows into the passenger compartment.
[Note - The air flowing into the vehicle interior is temperature-controlled in the heating and air-conditioning unit. For this, hot and cold air is mixed with the help of the mixing flaps. Depending on the version of the air conditioning, one mixing flap or two mixing flaps are installed.]

During a maximum heater request, the mixing flaps route all the air through the heat exchanger for heating system.
In the coolant circuit, water valves (heater valves) are installed before heat exchanger for heating system. Via clocking of the water valves, the flow rate of the coolant is regulated by the heat exchanger for heating system, and in so doing the temperature of the heat exchanger for heating system is influenced. The blow-out temperature of the air is determined by the temperature of the heat exchanger for heating system.

The temperature of the heat exchanger is monitored by a heat exchanger sensor.

Possible faults of the heat exchanger for heating system

Clogged heat exchanger for heating system
Mechanical damage of the heat exchanger for heating system (e.g. leaking)
Effects of the deficiencies of the heat exchanger for heating system

An obstruction in the heat exchanger for heating system prevents the even heat up of the heat exchanger for heating system to the necessary temperature.
The maximum possible heater output of the heating system is reduced.
Depending on the location of the obstruction, the blow-out temperature of the air blown into the passenger compartment may vary between the driver's and passenger's side despite the temperature setting being the same.
Measures

Check the heat exchanger for mechanical damage.
Heat up the coolant temperature to 80 °C and check whether the temperature of the heat exchanger temperature sensor on the driver's side and, if installed, on the passenger's side has reached at least 65 °C. Perform following checks for this:

1) Check the left heat exchanger for heating system temperature:

Adjust the left nominal temperature to maximum cooling.
Adjust the right nominal temperature to maximum heat.

2) Check the right heat exchanger for heating system temperature:

Adjust the left nominal temperature to maximum heat
Adjust the right nominal temperature to maximum cooling

The measurement period for each side must be at least 30 seconds.

Perform the diagnosis of the heat exchanger for heating system.
Note

Before renewing the heat exchanger for heating system, it must be ensured that the following faults have been excluded:

Faulty water valves
Faulty coolant hoses before and after the heat exchanger for heating system
Faulty heat exchanger sensor

[Icycharizard]

Originally Posted by MJE60

Hi
If you are getting air flow then it is not the blower motor. I would check codes and see if faults thrown up such a sensor problem. Issue will be with air mixing flaps or within heat exchanger, namely the heat exchanger is not getting hot so the cold air is not being heated. My first check would be the mixing flaps, as there are two […]

Before renewing the heat exchanger for heating system, it must be ensured that the following faults have been excluded:

Faulty water valves
Faulty coolant hoses before and after the heat exchanger for heating system
Faulty heat exchanger sensor

So I turned the air on in regular mode, and un-synced the driver and passenger's heat options, which is what I think you meant. Then I put the air at medium strength on full hot in driver side and full cold on passenger side. Then I put full cold driver side and full hot on passenger’s side. There was no change in air temperature at all for either side. It only blows cold air. It also blows this cold air in auto mode. I have also noticed the engine fan kicking on a bit more often than normal. And I might be wrong but I only noticed that before when I had been running around in sport mode and driving real fast for a bit. But it does it with normal around town driving. I’m going out of town this weekend with the car, and no hot air is ok, but overheating would be a big deal with 360 mile trip over two days.

I am a visual person. Do you a diagram of the HVAC system for this car?

[Qsilver7]

Did you check your coolant level? And how do you have your stratified air dial set for the dash vents? If the dial(s) are turned into the blue area...then only cooled air will blow from the dash vents. If turned all the way to the red area on the dial, then only warmed air will blow from the dash vents. Move the stratified air dial to the middle (neutral area halfway between red & blue) and see what happens.

[Icycharizard]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Did you check your coolant level? And how do you have your stratified air dial set for the dash vents? If the dial(s) are turned into the blue area...then only cooled air will blow from the dash vents. If turned all the way to the red area on the dial, then only warmed air will blow from the dash vents. Move the stratified air dial to the middle (neutral area halfway between red & blue) and see what happens.

F48 does not have a stratified air vent. Those have been phased out of bmw.

The coolant was low. So I must have a leak.

[Icycharizard]

Circling back this… I am now getting time to work on the car:

Do I really need to use a scan tool to relearn the “stop limit” on the valvetronic actuator/motor? I am investigating / going to change either the water pump or thermostat bracket assembly due to a massive coolant leak. this is for an F48 X1. I had done the valve cover gasket on an e90 a few years back and had to remove the valvetronic motor, but you didn’t have to use a scan tool to reset it. It’s just the kind of thing the “stealership” tells you to charge a couple hundred extra $. Anyone know more details on this or if I can avoid removing the valvetronic motor altogether for an F48 X1 water pump change?

Also, do I really have to wait 12 hrs for the seal to dry for the connection of water pump to engine before adding coolant or warming up the engine? Someone was saying something like that but couldn’t confirm bmw propriety info.

Using this as a guide:

[Icycharizard]

Bump