[saphirschwarz.f48]

Originally Posted by xnick101

Are engine mounts going out early on these X1's a common issue? Took my X1 to the dealer for an oil change and they sent me a video showing the engine mount is leaking on the passenger side. When I asked them about it they said the heat kills them. The vehicle is a 2017 with 38k miles on it. I am just surprised to see an engine mount already dead after so soon. Plus they want $1500 to change it.

Just had mine done, also 38k miles. Mine’s a 2019.

[Eagle721]

Dealership on LI quoted $2250 w/o tax ($2450 total) to replace. Labor 7hr @ $1975 Need to comp with my local shop.

[E39M5Dan]

I'm having this rumbling issue with my wife's 2017 X1 and I suspect it's the motor mount. Just one question for those that have done this repair... would taking the bracket out thru the bottom of the engine bay be easier? I have access to a two post lift and every tool you can imagine.

[Skyline2.0]

Originally Posted by E39M5Dan

I'm having this rumbling issue with my wife's 2017 X1 and I suspect it's the motor mount. Just one question for those that have done this repair... would taking the bracket out thru the bottom of the engine bay be easier? I have access to a two post lift and every tool you can imagine.

For the upper mount near passenger wheel well, it's easy enough to pull it out the top. Drop the fender liner to make things easier.

I recently did the lower mount without much difficulty using ramps and a jack (to hold the engine). A lift might make it marginally easier, but you'll need to figure out a way to support the engine while in the air.

[X1604M]

Originally Posted by Skyline2.0

For the upper mount near passenger wheel well, it's easy enough to pull it out the top. Drop the fender liner to make things easier.

I recently did the lower mount without much difficulty using ramps and a jack (to hold the engine). A lift might make it marginally easier, but you'll need to figure out a way to support the engine while in the air.

How was the state of your old lower mount? Did you change it as prevention or because its torn? I am thinking of checking it. Thanks

[Skyline2.0]

Originally Posted by X1604M

How was the state of your old lower mount? Did you change it as prevention or because its torn? I am thinking of checking it. Thanks

The lower one was completely fine and still good. I ultimately changed for no reason. I got the Powerflex upper mount insert to (supposedly) prevent excessive movement. Decided to replace the lower mount bushing with the Powerflex one too at the same time.

Lower bushing replacement was a terrible idea as it popped out of place almost immediately. It has a garbage 2 piece design and will not remain in place.

I actually bought another OEM lower engine mount since there's excessive movement now, likely due to the crappy Powerflex lower mount bushing.

Inspecting shouldn't be hard if you can get under the car.

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by Skyline2.0

The lower one was completely fine and still good. I ultimately changed for no reason. I got the Powerflex upper mount insert to (supposedly) prevent excessive movement. Decided to replace the lower mount bushing with the Powerflex one too at the same time.

Lower bushing replacement was a terrible idea as it popped out of place almost immediately. It has a garbage 2 piece design and will not remain in place.

I actually bought another OEM lower engine mount since there's excessive movement now, likely due to the crappy Powerflex lower mount bushing.

Inspecting shouldn't be hard if you can get under the car.

Thanks for the heads up, was considering powerflex for the lower mount, will keep the lowermount in place.

Still have to replace the upper mount some time, it is not cracked or leaking but it is loose. The shimmies I were having were due to bushings in the control arms / wishbones. Put in Meyle HD and way more direct ride.

[Nokbmw24]

Did this job today, BMW AU estimated $1500 to $2000 including mount $400, my mobile mechanic got a genuine one for $300 and went in through the drivers side wheel, wasn't a dyi job, took us working together top and bottom to maneuver it out and move hoses and wiring out of the way while we went till it dropped out, new one went in easily, whole job took two hours, charged me $250 cash, I gave him $350 cause it was a bit of a fiddly job to do and he saved me quite a lot of money, so in all $650 compared to BMW's $1500 min, less than half price, very happy with that

[E39M5Dan]

Going to do this project tomorrow with one of my buddies. Looked thru some vids.. I like the idea of taking the mount out thru the wheel well. Less painful than removing the headlight. For the belt, I saw a vid where you have someone use their weight to pull down on the belt, rotating the tensioner, and then slipping a hex key into the keyhole slot on the tensioner to hold it in place. I'll try and take a picture or two while we're in there and try and show how that works.

[E39M5Dan]

Okay.. got it done but what a PITA. I managed to do an oil change, replace the serpentine belt and the motor mount. All told it took 8 hours. An oil change is pretty straight forward simple having done them before on this engine. I do miss having the oil filter housing on the top side tho.

Removed the wheel well liner, removed the windshield washer filler hose and moved some wiring out of the way. The top part of the A/C line holders just break off like everyone else. Supported the engine below and removed the engine mount. It wiggled out thru the wheel well with just a little wiggling around.

Then I attacked the belt. I would not recommend doing this unless you have a lot of patience. I used a cable wrapped around the belt to pull it down to rotate the tensioner... and then slid a hex key in the tensioner to hold it in place. You have to fight to get the old belt out, and then you have to maneuver the new belt in. Three of the pulleys you have to do by feel since you can't see them. This is where you need patience. Once back in... pulled the hex key and confirmed everything was on correctly.

Then to install the new motor mount. Wiggled it in the opposite of removal. Bolting it back in... well, you need to call a friend.... one to move the motor around as you try and line up the bolts. Torque and thank your lucky stars if you hand isn't bleeding by now.

Put all the sundries back on the car.... test drive.... nice and quiet... wife's happy. I sure hope the Etorx socket I dropped/lost in the engine bay eventually drops out and stays in the bottom panel.. I'd like to have it back in the set.

The old motor mount was definitely toasted.

[Findlaymart]

Thanks for all this information, I’m going to try as video above suggests, probably take apart one Spring evening & put back together following morning, since fatigue may set in as others have suggested….. I also have the lower bar type mount to replace which should be easier🙏

[Findlaymart]

Is it possible to replace the Serpentine belt without removing the engine mount? My car has 103k miles & I think it could be the original belt, what sort of miles should one expect from these continental belts?

[jamessfarnell]

Originally Posted by E39M5Dan

Okay.. got it done but what a PITA. I managed to do an oil change, replace the serpentine belt and the motor mount. All told it took 8 hours. An oil change is pretty straight forward simple having done them before on this engine. I do miss having the oil filter housing on the top side tho.

Removed the wheel well liner, removed the windshield washer filler hose and moved some wiring out of the way. The top part of the A/C line holders just break off like everyone else. Supported the engine below and removed the engine mount. It wiggled out thru the wheel well with just a little wiggling around.

Then I attacked the belt. I would not recommend doing this unless you have a lot of patience. I used a cable wrapped around the belt to pull it down to rotate the tensioner... and then slid a hex key in the tensioner to hold it in place. You have to fight to get the old belt out, and then you have to maneuver the new belt in. Three of the pulleys you have to do by feel since you can't see them. This is where you need patience. Once back in... pulled the hex key and confirmed everything was on correctly.

Then to install the new motor mount. Wiggled it in the opposite of removal. Bolting it back in... well, you need to call a friend.... one to move the motor around as you try and line up the bolts. Torque and thank your lucky stars if you hand isn't bleeding by now.

Put all the sundries back on the car.... test drive.... nice and quiet... wife's happy. I sure hope the Etorx socket I dropped/lost in the engine bay eventually drops out and stays in the bottom panel.. I'd like to have it back in the set.

The old motor mount was definitely toasted.

So, I have (and had) the same rumble - no shaking or shuddering, but an annoying rumble on load, between 3k and 5k Revs. Just about 12 months ago, right hand side (driver side in RSA) mount was replaced, and all was good, and sound went away. Slowly but surely the rumble has returned - only about 6000km's. Back in the shop as I type to have it checked.

Any thoughts on anything else the rumble can be? (In the last 18 months I have done all the control arms, both drive shafts serviced/recon'd, as well as the mount.)

Will update on the 2nd mount.

[Findlaymart]

Hey Guys, I’m happy to report the job wasn’t as big & hairy after all, managed to turn it around in about 5hrs, great advice on potential threading of the bolts ensured I took my time🙏, I had to cut the plastic since it was fouling rear bolt that fixed the mount to car body, the aftermarket Febi mount didn’t have threads in the Aircon pipe mounts so I did that whilst removed from the car, removing the mount through the gap was OK as long as you took your time & practice some patience….

[mDrive1]

I also completed this. The vibration from the steering wheel is gone.
The front half of the fender liner can be folded back, so there is no need to remove it completely. I saw this in some video and it really worked well
Found some wear on the serpentine belt which will be my next project.
Here I found this, which may help