[pole1980]

Hi guys, I have a weird problem with my X1 2016 F48.

So if the car sits for a few hours and i get near the car to unlock it with the key fob, i have to repeatedly press the unlock button (like 10 times) until the car registers the command. Then it finally unlocks. It's like it's asleep and fails to sense the key.

If I try to unlock it right after I turn off the engine, it works as it should, instantly.

Tried with both keys, it goes the same. Batteries are good on the key fobs, only the car battery is overdue.

Have you ever had this happened to you? Any ideas?

Thank you

[alex2112]

It could honestly be the car's battery. Having an old or worn out battery can cause all sorts of issues including erratic behavior like this. I would recheck after the car's battery is replaced and then go from there.

[pole1980]

Originally Posted by alex2112

It could honestly be the car's battery. Having an old or worn out battery can cause all sorts of issues including erratic behavior like this. I would recheck after the car's battery is replaced and then go from there.

I guess, I'll schedule an appointment to replace the battery.

Still, very weird, actually it's a delay, so I press "unlock" once, but only after like 3 seconds it actually registers the command and unlocks the car.

[Semi Retired]

Personally I would change the fob batteries first, would seem to be the cheapest and sensible option, replacing the car battery will be mega expensive pounds or dollars. It appears that to replace the car battery is only advisable via a dealer or specialist best of luck 🤞

[jrveron]

Originally Posted by pole1980

Hi guys, I have a weird problem with my X1 2016 F48.

So if the car sits for a few hours and i get near the car to unlock it with the key fob, i have to repeatedly press the unlock button (like 10 times) until the car registers the command. Then it finally unlocks. It's like it's asleep and fails to sense the key.

If I try to unlock it right after I turn off the engine, it works as it should, instantly.

Tried with both keys, it goes the same. Batteries are good on the key fobs, only the car battery is overdue.

Have you ever had this happened to you? Any ideas?

Thank you

If you never changed your (car) battery, it's time to do it. General advice is to change it every 5 to 6 years. When it's bad, it generates random failures. Most common are lights switching on/off or gauges flickering when starting the engine.

You can change the battery yourself. Just remember to register the new one using something like BimmerLink APP, but you will need an ODB2 connector. You can definitely save some money vs. going to BMW.

On the other hand, I agree you should change the fob batteries first. It's cheaper, and it's known those batteries tend to fail, even from brand new.

[pole1980]

Originally Posted by Semi Retired

Personally I would change the fob batteries first, would seem to be the cheapest and sensible option, replacing the car battery will be mega expensive pounds or dollars. It appears that to replace the car battery is only advisable via a dealer or specialist best of luck ��

Originally Posted by jrveron

If you never changed your (car) battery, it's time to do it. General advice is to change it every 5 to 6 years. When it's bad, it generates random failures. Most common are lights switching on/off or gauges flickering when starting the engine.

You can change the battery yourself. Just remember to register the new one using something like BimmerLink APP, but you will need an ODB2 connector. You can definitely save some money vs. going to BMW.

On the other hand, I agree you should change the fob batteries first. It's cheaper, and it's known those batteries tend to fail, even from brand new.

I've changed the key fob batteries (on both key fobs) as soon as this happened, with no results. By far the cheapest "maintenance" I have ever did on any of my BMW's, 5 EUR for 2 Duracell batteries, super easy to replace.

I will replace the car battery at the dealer, it's not that expensive tbh, I've literally just changed it on the X3 and it was something like 500 EUR (oem battery/coding) + firmware update, I am really not cut out for diy's

thank you guys!

[jrveron]

Originally Posted by pole1980

I've changed the key fob batteries (on both key fobs) as soon as this happened, with no results. By far the cheapest "maintenance" I have ever did on any of my BMW's, 5 EUR for 2 Duracell batteries, super easy to replace.

I will replace the car battery at the dealer, it's not that expensive tbh, I've literally just changed it on the X3 and it was something like 500 EUR (oem battery/coding) + firmware update, I am really not cut out for diy's

thank you guys!

You know, a user here in the forum had to change the fob batteries 3 times before he found a good set.

I had a similar experience as well. I replaced the fob batteries, and they last ~2 months. After that, I put new ones, and that was ~1 year ago. And I always buy from recognized dealers.

And with the car's battery, I agree. Going with BMW will also give a warranty, so it's a plus.

Bottom line, I strongly believe the car's battery is the reason for your problems. When your car is running, the alternator charges the battery, so you don't have issues with the fob key after turning off the engine. But, you start having problems after some time turned off since the battery cannot keep the charge/voltage.

[pole1980]

Update, so after having this weird unlock delay, it finally wouldn't open at all, opened it with the physical key, tried to start the car, totally dead, no dash light no nothing, dead, I mean dead-dead. Tried to charge the battery with my C-Tek, nothing at all after 8 hours, at this point I thought my DDE is dead or smth. Panic. Had some beers. Panic went way.

Called a flat bead next day, delivered the car to a BMW dealer, changed the battery, car is alive now. What a pain in the ass tbh., how the hell can a battery get so dead, that you can't even jumpstart the car or charge it just enough to start? It was 5 years old, OEM BMW Battery.

[pole1980]

never mind, problem is back, just like before. Unbelievable.

I have one single fault on ISTA+, 28CC00 LIN bus: Communication Fault, left the car to a shop that is supposed to be the best in diagnosing stuff like this, DDE repair if the case... i dunno, i am baffled...

[pole1980]

update: car is fixed, the ECU had water damage (apparently this is a known issue, there was a recall for this, essentially they added some sort of protection cap, plastic thingy on top of the ECU to prevent water ingress which happens because of a design fault), mine wasn't called for some reason, and there you go... horrible stuff.

F48 owners should check this just to be safe.

[jrveron]

Originally Posted by pole1980

update: car is fixed, the ECU had water damage (apparently this is a known issue, there was a recall for this, essentially they added some sort of protection cap, plastic thingy on top of the ECU to prevent water ingress which happens because of a design fault), mine wasn't called for some reason, and there you go... horrible stuff.

F48 owners should check this just to be safe.

WOW

I'm glad you fix it and it's definitely a good thing to know.