[TheRiddle]

Self explanatory

I've already perfromed a full bleeding on coolant (which was a little higher than MAX level) with the official procedure 3 times, to be sure that no air was trapped into the circuit (regarding this I'm not that happy for the pressurized cooling system, better the old one where you can leave the cap off)
after that the heating was better not at the same temperature of driver's side, but better,
this morning with cold engine, same scenario, driver hot, passenger cold
coolant level was perfect

4 things i've noticed:

- a little bit of mouse poo on into the engine bay
- a very light smell of coolant,only outside, also a little bit of steam from heater area in the front driver side, honestly I dunno is is due to the rain on the heater or if there's a real leak somewhere.
- when heating is working on passenger side, if i turn the driver side to coldest (NO SYNC) while the passenger is on the hottest setting, once i turn drivers' to max, passenger instantly become hotter, let's say to the real max temperature.
- in daily commute traffic, i guess when the engine ìs really hot, passenger starts working.

i exclude problems on flaps as they're working without problems and once the sys is proprerly working the variation of temperature is ok,
I supposed a stuck heater valve, as the car sat unused for 5/6 months, but is not this case.
no visible leak on the circuit or on engine head


Anyone had experienced this before? how did you solve it, car is under warranty (not bmw one)but if i can solve myslef, is better..

[djadam]

Hi,

I would just take it to BMW as it is under warranty. I had a different problem, took it to BMW and they talked directly to Car Garantie (which was my warranty supplier), I didn't have to spend anything for the problem.

Heating/cooling is usually covered by third party warranties, you should check the details in the contract.

[TheRiddle]

Originally Posted by djadam

Hi,

I would just take it to BMW as it is under warranty. I had a different problem, took it to BMW and they talked directly to Car Garantie (which was my warranty supplier), I didn't have to spend anything for the problem.

Heating/cooling is usually covered by third party warranties, you should check the details in the contract.

car is used, seller gave me a warranty but as we're both italians, you know how these warranties works, or better what they cover,
for climate sys, if i'm not wrong, they cover only AC compressor.
and mostly these depend on indy shop which obviously are not that familiar with a specific brand issue...

btw
i've spoke with a friend of mine, ATD mech @ dealer, and he reassured me by telling that IF the passenger side gets hot, even sporadically, the problem is NOT the blend flap,
IF the coolant level is not decreasing there are no leaks.

He suggested me to perform a series of bleeding procedure by adding a little more coolant over the MAX level and then adjust with the bleeding screw on reservoir (unusual, but to be sure...)

in the last days i've been abroad and I had no chances to personally check it, but this morning my wife said me that yesterday worked flawlessy, this morning not.

i'll be home this afternoon and i'll give a try to his directions..

[TheRiddle]

I found time to do a check.

coolant is leveled and there's no need to bleed any air (any more, at least).

NO cooland smell from inside/outside, the smell I had last time was because i wrongly started engine with coolant cap off, with the result of a fountain into engine bay (and a pond on the mech garage)

the heating on driver side is really hot this means that 90% the core is not clogged,

the quantity of air from passenger side vents is a little bit lower than driver's side, this lead me to think that the real problem is the flap,
despite the fact that i can hear a slight electric sound from that area ( when rotating the passenger knob), the fact that hot air is sporadic surely is related to this,

I've read on other forum that could be also a SW issue, that needs a reset or a recalibration of the flap,

I?m downloading ISTA so i can perform a full diagnosis on IHK module to be sure of this.

I've already checked DIS for the procedure and seems that passenger's flap is the easiest one to be reached (just behind a panel in passenger foot well area)


I'll update

[Ivsbimmer]

Originally Posted by TheRiddle

I found time to do a check.

coolant is leveled and there's no need to bleed any air (any more, at least).

NO cooland smell from inside/outside, the smell I had last time was because i wrongly started engine with coolant cap off, with the result of a fountain into engine bay (and a pond on the mech garage)

the heating on driver side is really hot this means that 90% the core is not clogged,

the quantity of air from passenger side vents is a little bit lower than driver's side, this lead me to think that the real problem is the flap,
despite the fact that i can hear a slight electric sound from that area ( when rotating the passenger knob), the fact that hot air is sporadic surely is related to this,

I've read on other forum that could be also a SW issue, that needs a reset or a recalibration of the flap,

I?m downloading ISTA so i can perform a full diagnosis on IHK module to be sure of this.

I've already checked DIS for the procedure and seems that passenger's flap is the easiest one to be reached (just behind a panel in passenger foot well area)


I'll update

Hi TheRiddle,

I am having similar problems on my X1 with 40,000km only.
In my case there is almost no heating even when I set the temp on max. The drivers side has a bit wormer air than passendger side.
I replaced the coolant with new and flushed the heater core - nothnig irregular came out from it.
Checked with ISTA - no faults on the IHKA at all. All flaps respond well...Calibration was performed successfully.

Let me know if you find any solution to your problem

[TheRiddle]

Originally Posted by Ivsbimmer

Hi TheRiddle,

I am having similar problems on my X1 with 40,000km only.
In my case there is almost no heating even when I set the temp on max. The drivers side has a bit wormer air than passendger side.
I replaced the coolant with new and flushed the heater core - nothnig irregular came out from it.
Checked with ISTA - no faults on the IHKA at all. All flaps respond well...Calibration was performed successfully.

Let me know if you find any solution to your problem

i'm really clueless..
yesterday i went to check if dealer could check on the go but both dealers i've beeen refused ("too busy, see ya on mid jan...").
i tried to refer to Bosh service but they told me that they won't be able to deep diagnose the system with their devices..

tragicomic thing is that once i left the 2nd dealer, the heating was working, stills a difference in air volume between the 2 sides, but heat was the same...

i've also spent an hour listening to the flap moving and I realized that it moves freely as the noise of the rubber seal around the flap could be easily noticed sealing the duct...

this morning same scenario, hot-cold (then warmish)

[TheRiddle]

little update

i've been able to run ISTA and i've performed a full test on blend flaps
and i got the confirmation that the issue is related to them (right one)

in fact seems that that flaps need to be claibrated in some way as at 0% no hot air, at 100% no hot air, but moving between 0% and 100% there's a moment in which heat is at full blast...

i did a SW reset first (as mentioned on a F22 page for an identycal issue) and then tried a recalibration, without a great success as now I have the opposite scenario, so full heating even whit lowest temperature selected.

unforntunately i couldn't retry as I'm out for work, but at least is something..


If you know a the precise steps to perform a complete & correct reset procedure, please let me know.

[Ivsbimmer]

Hello,

Did you find a solution to the problem?

I've been having the same issue, which started after sofware up-date (maybe just coincidense). Driver side is hot, passenger side cold. Replaced one flap motor on the passenger side due to fault code, but still the same problem.

If someone solved this, please share the way to fix this issue.

[TheRiddle]

Originally Posted by Ivsbimmer

Hello,

Did you find a solution to the problem?

I've been having the same issue, which started after sofware up-date (maybe just coincidense). Driver side is hot, passenger side cold. Replaced one flap motor on the passenger side due to fault code, but still the same problem.

If someone solved this, please share the way to fix this issue.

have you readdresed the flap motor via ISTA?
once you change them you must let them know in which side they are and calibrate them properly.

[Z4robin]

Hi All

I also have a similar problem for the last number of months.

It's a RHD f48, no heat to the drivers side. In this cold weather, next to impossible to not have ice blocks of feet.....

Anyway, my first scan was retuning a code of 801189.

Talked to BMW who referenced a changed core and other expensive bits - expect a big bill....

Got a copy of ISTA and find that even though it was finding a problem (Can't remember the error, I tried to Reset, and recalibrate... via ISTA

ERROR: Recalibration could not complete.....

Decided to take off the Actuator and see if it was even initialising. IT WAS...

What i did notice was that the actual Blend flap door was jammed in the COLD AIR Open position.... the actuator could not turn the flap....

I had to use a flat nose pliers to release it and now it turns freely - open to close blend flap movement is about 60-70 degrees.

I have not had time to reassemble yet, but hoping to reassemble and recalibrate and hopefully that fixes. No clicking or noticeable issues with the actuator.... thus far.

Right now i am getting lots of lovely Hot Air through the drivers footwell which is keeping the missus happy.

Perhaps this might help the discussion

[TheRiddle]

Originally Posted by Z4robin

Hi All

I also have a similar problem for the last number of months.

It's a RHD f48, no heat to the drivers side. In this cold weather, next to impossible to not have ice blocks of feet.....

Anyway, my first scan was retuning a code of 801189.

Talked to BMW who referenced a changed core and other expensive bits - expect a big bill....

Got a copy of ISTA and find that even though it was finding a problem (Can't remember the error, I tried to Reset, and recalibrate... via ISTA

ERROR: Recalibration could not complete.....

Decided to take off the Actuator and see if it was even initialising. IT WAS...

What i did notice was that the actual Blend flap door was jammed in the COLD AIR Open position.... the actuator could not turn the flap....

I had to use a flat nose pliers to release it and now it turns freely - open to close blend flap movement is about 60-70 degrees.

I have not had time to reassemble yet, but hoping to reassemble and recalibrate and hopefully that fixes. No clicking or noticeable issues with the actuator.... thus far.

Right now i am getting lots of lovely Hot Air through the drivers footwell which is keeping the missus happy.

Perhaps this might help the discussion

you experienced what is the cause of the whole issue,
the flap's seal got sticky to the frame and the motor fails.

we suppose that mine started the same way as yours, but ended breaking for excessive resistance, in the part where the motor joins the flap (see video)

[Z4robin]

Hi

Currently my motor is still working and initialising.... what worries me is the motor rotates 360 degrees both forward and in reverse when powered on but the flap only is a 60-70 degree open/close.

Will this just jam again if i put it back together.....

I see in another forum that someone has made an adapter with a 3d printer that limits the rotation of the flap to only what's allowed so the pressure is not on the flap.

Will try to find it again.....

Found it
https://www.minif56.com/threads/driv...&sortby=oldest

[TheRiddle]

Originally Posted by Z4robin

Hi

Currently my motor is still working and initialising.... what worries me is the motor rotates 360 degrees both forward and in reverse when powered on but the flap only is a 60-70 degree open/close.

Will this just jam again if i put it back together.....

I see in another forum that someone has made an adapter with a 3d printer that limits the rotation of the flap to only what's allowed so the pressure is not on the flap.

Will try to find it again.....

Found it
https://www.minif56.com/threads/driv...&sortby=oldest

that is a really good solution (limit the travel of the flap)
unfortunately in my case is the shaft to be broken..