[StefanJ]

Hi,

Today I was surprised by a battery event.
I shut-off the car, then I get back to it and unlock the doors.
When I pressed the power on button nothing happened.
No power was present at any button.
After searching around why I have no power, I discovered that the battery is dead. When a new battery was temporary connected,the car started immediately.
I'm going to buy a new batt tomorrow but untill then I completely disconnected the "-" wire from the old battery and mechanically closed the car.

Is there any danger like loosing some settings of the numerous computer of the car?

Regards,
Stefan

[Peter_R]

The most important settings that allow the car to function will not be lost.

[StefanJ]

Originally Posted by Peter_R

The most important settings that allow the car to function will not be lost.

Thank you!
What kind of minor functions could be lost?


A strange thing regarding the battery:
Measuring the voltage of the battery connected to the car is showing just 4,3 V.
Then, disconnecting the battery it showed 12,45 V. Is it strange or not?

[CliveL]

If you're concerned about your personal settings being lost, you can backup the Profiles to either a USB stick, or to the ConnectedDrive "cloud" service, before you disconnect the battery (see below). On my older 5 Series there was a coding process that you were supposed to follow if you were replacing the battery, to let the car know what type of battery it was (lead-acid or AGM etc.) so that the battery monitor was calibrated correctly. I'm afraid I don't know if this is the case with the X1 though...

[CliveL]

According to the Technical Information System (TIS) you do need to register a battery change with either a coding setup, or with dealer equipment. The TIS document is here. That was for my particular car (xDrive 20i) but I imagine it would be similar for other F48 models.

[StefanJ]

Originally Posted by CliveL

According to the Technical Information System (TIS) you do need to register a battery change with either a coding setup, or with dealer equipment. The TIS document is here. That was for my particular car (xDrive 20i) but I imagine it would be similar for other F48 models.

Thanks CliveL.
I knew I have to register the battery and I'm going to do it today with BimmerLink. I guess it should work.

Regarding the backup, the info came too late for me, because I left the car without power since yesterday.
After replacing the battery this morning, I found I lost many settings, but nothing that cannot be replaced. Just some time spent to make the settings again

Regards!

[ZZZZ]

Originally Posted by StefanJ

Thank you!
What kind of minor functions could be lost?


A strange thing regarding the battery:
Measuring the voltage of the battery connected to the car is showing just 4,3 V.
Then, disconnecting the battery it showed 12,45 V. Is it strange or not?

The 12.45V you're seeing is your alternator output.

[StefanJ]

Originally Posted by ZZZZ

The 12.45V you're seeing is your alternator output.

Nope, because the battery was out of circuit, out of the car.
Alone, out of the car, the battery has 12,45 V.
Connected in circuit has only a little over 4 V.
That was strange.

Today, the new battery measured 12,5 V out of the circuit and 12,3 V connected to the car.
When started the car, the measured voltage on the battery was 14,4 V - this is the charging voltage of the alternator (as I know).

[wcs2229]

Originally Posted by StefanJ

Nope, because the battery was out of circuit, out of the car.
Alone, out of the car, the battery has 12,45 V.
Connected in circuit has only a little over 4 V.
That was strange.

Today, the new battery measured 12,5 V out of the circuit and 12,3 V connected to the car.
When started the car, the measured voltage on the battery was 14,4 V - this is the charging voltage of the alternator (as I know).

When the battery is out if the car, the no-load voltage is higher. When the battery is in the car, the voltage drops due to the load from car lights, electronics, etc. The weak battery is not able to sustain output and the voltage drops.

For example, when you start a car, you may notice that the voltage drops temporarily because of the high load from the starter cranking the engine and other systems/electronics running, including spark plugs, fuel pump. In winter/cold weather, the battery capacity is weaker which causes the voltage to drop further, resulting in harder starts.

[link_sy]

Originally Posted by StefanJ

Thanks CliveL.
I knew I have to register the battery and I'm going to do it today with BimmerLink. I guess it should work.

Regarding the backup, the info came too late for me, because I left the car without power since yesterday.
After replacing the battery this morning, I found I lost many settings, but nothing that cannot be replaced. Just some time spent to make the settings again

Regards!

Hi

Could you please share the steps of registering the new battery via bimmercode?

[link_sy]

Originally Posted by link_sy

Hi

Could you please share the steps of registering the new battery via bimmercode?

Hi

Just bumping this thread up for support. I've changed my battery from the OEM 70Ah AGM to 74Ah EFB and wondering if I need to do any coding changes to safeguard the rest of the electricals.

Thanks

[MJE60]

Originally Posted by link_sy

Hi

Could you please share the steps of registering the new battery via bimmercode?

You cannot use Bimmercode but a separate app called Bimmerlink has a battery registration function and you can also check for fault codes etc.