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BMW X1 (F48) and X2 (F39) Forums General BMW X1 Forum (F48) Rear Diff Fluid - Hypoid Axle Oil G__...what?

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      09-27-2020, 12:02 AM   #23
Skyline2.0
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Finally got around to doing a drain and fill of rear diff fluid @ 40k miles. Old fluid was pretty nasty - pic attached.

Managed to do everything with wheels on the ground. Removed plastic cover under diff to avoid making a mess. Pulled out about 16 oz and replaced with ~16.5 oz of BMW Hypoid G3 gear oil (Part # 83222413512). Replaced the drain plug for safe measure (Part # 33117525064). I filled up the diff, then let the car idle for a few minutes and did a couple roundabout loops with left/right turns. Topped off again and torqued everything to spec - drain plug = 60 Nm/44.3 lb-ft; 3x bolts holding plastic cover = 12 Nm/106.2 lb-in.

Thanks to all the folks that previously posted their own experiences. Hope my few extra tips will help future members that decide to tackle this project.
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      10-02-2020, 01:54 PM   #24
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I want to do a transmission and transfer case/PTO fluid drain and fill this weekend. Got all my o-rings and supposed TC fluid from dealer today. The fluid I received was BMW's Final Drive Gear Oil C-SAF-XO 75W90 (part # 07512293972; pic attached), but realoem lists BMW Synthetic OSP (part # 83222365987) as the proper fluid. I asked the Parts rep to double check and he came back confirming the C-SAF-XO should be used for the TC.

I dont want to end up putting in the wrong fluid. Can someone confirm whether the C-SAF-XO is the correct/compatible fluid or I should use Synthetic OSP?

Also, there's no front diff on our gen X1?

Thanks much.
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      10-03-2020, 11:42 AM   #25
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The fluid you're using is fine, and an approved fluid. It's also available as Castrol Syntrax LL, withouth the BMW label. The SAF-XJ fluid,83222413512, is a different manufacturer (Pentosin, I believe). The fluids are interchangeable.

There isn't a "front differential" per se, the transfer case up front serves that purpose.

Good luck on the fluid swaps--both are pretty straightforward. If there is one piece of advice I'd give, it would be to avoid the temptation to do the front transfer case fluid with that small heat shield in place. While it could be done, you'll just scrape up your knuckles and end up removing it anyway for access...
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      10-05-2020, 11:05 AM   #26
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Thanks much for confirming fluid compatibility, Jack. I called another Parts Dept and they also said the C-SAF-XO 75W90 is appropriate for my XDrive model. Their system did show Synthetic OSP as the proper fluid, but listed the C-SAF-XO part #.

I drained out ~0.4L of transfer case fluid and put in about the same. Fluid was quite nasty. As others noted, drain and fill is straightforward and simple. Most time consuming part was getting the car level and removing one of the bracket/aluminum tube near the passenger/right front CV axle. I spent an inordinate amount of time fussing with 1 bracket due to space restrictions. Pic of the tube removed (separate bracket not shown) and fluid color attached.

Word of caution - There's an electrical component (I believe the starter?) right near the transfer case, which you should not touch with any metal objects. I must've accidentally made contact with my ratchet after cracking the drain plug loose and sparks flew suddenly. Needless to say I was more careful going forward.

Also performed transmission fluid drain and fill twice using Febi Bilstein's ATF 6 fluid (Part # 29934) on my Aisin 8-speed unit. ~3.5L drained out. Color that came out wasn't too dirty. Shifts are definitely smoother and notchiness on inclines seems to be gone.

Checked fluid level @ ~45 Celsius using scan tool. Shifted through each gear twice and held it in position for 2 seconds to get the fluid fully circulated. Took final measure while car was running and waited until only a slow drip came out of the overflow plug.

For transmission service, tips for future members that attempt to DIY this:
1. Get a good 17 mm hex socket and apply a good amount of upward pressure to remove the large overflow plug. The hole is not very deep and there may be a risk of rounding out the overflow plug if you're not careful.
2. Clean off top of transmission before removing fill plug. I had loose particles of dirt and debris that I cleaned off to ensure junk didn't fall into the transmission hole.
3. Get a long extension and long funnel (or fluid extractor syringe pump) to make your life easier when filling with new fluid. The fill hole is fairly deep in the engine bay and a standard funnel will make pouring a bit more difficult.

Thanks to all that contributed to this thread.
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      10-05-2020, 11:11 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline2.0 View Post
Most time consuming part was getting the car level and removing one of the bracket/aluminum tube near the passenger/right front CV axle. I spent an inordinate amount of time fussing with 1 bracket due to space restrictions.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/85380715

To anyone doing this, I'd strongly recommend one of these. One of the few tools I don't have (ratcheting 6 points? who needs these?? obviously, BMW mechanics...).

One of the E6 bolts is really hard to access. This will make it way easier. I already bought one for next time.

The fluid capacity is actually just .4L, so you obviously got all of it out. The fluid in mine look terrible as well. It's worth nothing that almost every other Haldex-equipped car comes with a transfer case that holds about 1L of fluid. It's worth changing this on a someone regular basis, IMO.
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      10-05-2020, 11:42 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Watts View Post
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/85380715

To anyone doing this, I'd strongly recommend one of these. One of the few tools I don't have (ratcheting 6 points? who needs these?? obviously, BMW mechanics...).

One of the E6 bolts is really hard to access. This will make it way easier. I already bought one for next time.

The fluid capacity is actually just .4L, so you obviously got all of it out. The fluid in mine look terrible as well. It's worth nothing that almost every other Haldex-equipped car comes with a transfer case that holds about 1L of fluid. It's worth changing this on a someone regular basis, IMO.
Agreed. Based on your earlier suggestion I did get a standard E torx double box end wrench set, which I unfortunately couldn't get good use for this one annoying bolt. After experiencing the awkward and cramped space issue firsthand, I realized why you were recommending specifically a ratcheting style E8.

To all owners expecting to keep their X1 long term, seriously consider servicing the transfer case/PTO. The fluid that went in was golden yellow compared to the extremely dark black/green fluid that came out. Also, I did find a few tiny metal shavings at the very bottom as I was pouring into a disposable container. Although color alone isn't an indicator of degradation in the fluid's protective properties or service life, it's well worth the peace of mind. Not very expensive to DIY either as 1L of BMW fluid + 2x screw plugs w/ washers were <$40 after tax.
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      03-25-2021, 11:29 AM   #29
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Haldex Fluid Change & Pump Sock Clean

Hi All

My first post!

Did anybody manage to remove the Haldex pump to clean the intake sock?

Did it involve cutting the rib as was thought in an earlier post?

I have located what I think is the refill plug; very small and difficult to access.

I cannot find a drain plug, is there one?
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      03-31-2021, 12:38 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petered View Post
Hi All

My first post!

Did anybody manage to remove the Haldex pump to clean the intake sock?

Did it involve cutting the rib as was thought in an earlier post?

I have located what I think is the refill plug; very small and difficult to access.

I cannot find a drain plug, is there one?
Hey man, welcome to the forum,

I don't think there's a drain, only a fill plug, and as others mentioned you need a fluid extractor of some sorts.
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      03-31-2021, 12:44 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Watts View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline2.0 View Post
Most time consuming part was getting the car level and removing one of the bracket/aluminum tube near the passenger/right front CV axle. I spent an inordinate amount of time fussing with 1 bracket due to space restrictions.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/85380715

To anyone doing this, I'd strongly recommend one of these. One of the few tools I don't have (ratcheting 6 points? who needs these?? obviously, BMW mechanics...).

One of the E6 bolts is really hard to access. This will make it way easier. I already bought one for next time.

The fluid capacity is actually just .4L, so you obviously got all of it out. The fluid in mine look terrible as well. It's worth nothing that almost every other Haldex-equipped car comes with a transfer case that holds about 1L of fluid. It's worth changing this on a someone regular basis, IMO.
Do you know if you can use a cover or sump from one of the other haldex equipped cars to increase the fluid capacity?

I think I recall seeing a Volvo with an aisin and also had a dipstick which would be brilliant if it could be retrofitted to the X1
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      03-31-2021, 10:09 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Makis View Post
Hey man, welcome to the forum,

I don't think there's a drain, only a fill plug, and as others mentioned you need a fluid extractor of some sorts.
Thanks for confirming lack of Haldex clutch drain plug.

Have you heard if anybody has been able to remove the pump & clean the intake mesh?
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      03-31-2021, 11:57 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petered View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Makis View Post
Hey man, welcome to the forum,

I don't think there's a drain, only a fill plug, and as others mentioned you need a fluid extractor of some sorts.
Thanks for confirming lack of Haldex clutch drain plug.

Have you heard if anybody has been able to remove the pump & clean the intake mesh?
Hey bud,

I do believe you can remove the pump but I don't know if it can be done while still on the car, I think you need to remove the whole haldex unit before you remove the pump, otherwise i don't think you can access it without removing other parts.

I just found the below online.

https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/hal...heavy.5062978/
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      04-06-2021, 02:31 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Makis View Post
Hey bud,

I do believe you can remove the pump but I don't know if it can be done while still on the car, I think you need to remove the whole haldex unit before you remove the pump, otherwise i don't think you can access it without removing other parts.

I just found the below online.

https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/hal...heavy.5062978/
Not good, no filter & no way of removing pump to clean it without major surgery....German engineering at it's best???
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      04-06-2021, 10:40 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petered View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Makis View Post
Hey bud,

I do believe you can remove the pump but I don't know if it can be done while still on the car, I think you need to remove the whole haldex unit before you remove the pump, otherwise i don't think you can access it without removing other parts.

I just found the below online.

https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/hal...heavy.5062978/
Not good, no filter & no way of removing pump to clean it without major surgery....German engineering at it's best???
If it was easy, they probably couldn't get away with charging a mall fortune on changing the fluids. I feel like most manufacturers have moved from making things easily serviceable and intelligently designed to whatever is easier and cheaper to make with the least amount of work possible.

Some things bmw does leave me dumbfounded as the how a company can be so meticulous about things and then someone signs off on a diff with no drain hole...
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      04-07-2021, 07:38 AM   #36
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At 3 years old with no service the X Drive becomes a heavy weight version of an S Drive! Most X Drive vehicles will not be sending anything through the to the rear wheels, by the time anybody realises. The warranty has run out and BMW are in the clear.
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      04-11-2021, 06:05 PM   #37
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Fluids

I just purchased a 2017 BMW X1 / Certified 31k Miles... Im looking to do all the services immediately.

Can anyone just give me a breakdown of what needs to be done? I've never had a BMW before and the information here is very confusing.

Transmission Service
Front Diff ? Haldex ????
Rear Diff

So the front diff is just the haldex fluid .5 ML
The tranmission fluid is "suck and fill" about 3.5L
and the rear is straight forward?

is there 3 or 4 different service requirements here? Is there not a front diff?

Thanks!
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      05-07-2021, 03:21 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CirrusSR22 View Post
I tried changing the Haldex fluid tonight and it was a total fail. You can’t remove the pump to drain the fluid or clean the screen without removing the entire Haldex unit, which involves removing the exhaust, driveshaft and other misc. parts.

The problem is the pump hits a stiffening rib on the differential housing, so you can only get the pump off about 5mm. Sucks because I feel the rib could be ground-down just a tiny bit and it would clear.

TIS removal procedure for the pump is to remove the entire Haldex unit, then unbolt the pump. I saw that but also glanced under the car and figured it would just come right out.

A little bit of fluid drained from the pump and while it was darker brown, it wasn’t the nasty black some of the VW forums show. I put it all together, topped it up with just a small amount of Ravenol AWD-H Haldex fluid and that’s about it. I supposed I’ll come up with a tiny suction hose rig to suck fluid from the top, but that’s about all the maintenance that can be quickly done on these. ��
If you remove the 4 number 13mm hex head M8 screws holding the clutch pack & input shaft assembly is it possible to rotate the housing holding the pump sufficiently to clear the fouling rib?

Last edited by petered; 05-07-2021 at 03:23 AM.. Reason: Missing info
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      06-29-2021, 12:27 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petered View Post
If you remove the 4 number 13mm hex head M8 screws holding the clutch pack & input shaft assembly is it possible to rotate the housing holding the pump sufficiently to clear the fouling rib?
So far I'd just done one drain and fill, but next time I'm going to just grind of the rib. Do this at your own risk and all, but I don't really see what damage this is going to cause. The fins are just there for cooling, they aren't structural in any way that I can see.
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      06-30-2021, 03:05 AM   #40
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Not sure how easy it will be to remove the rib with the pump not removed first. Please could you post details if successful. I have photos of the rib removal and drain plug added on a final drive but Haldex complete clutch was removed first to access pump. I can confirm that the rib removal does not have any detrimental impact on the final drive assembly structure.
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      06-30-2021, 03:09 AM   #41
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I thought that it might be worth removing the 4no M8 screws holding the clutch assembly and pump, rotating the assembly sufficiently to remove the pump. Once pump is removed it would give access to remove the rib.
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      06-30-2021, 12:52 PM   #42
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My plan was to try and grind it off with a flex shaft Dremel: https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products...aft-attachment

thoughts? Been a while since I've been under this car, but I'm thinking this would work?
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      06-30-2021, 12:58 PM   #43
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It’s worth a try, it looks like it could be a very tight squeeze though. Please post details of your hopefully successful rib and pump removal.
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      06-30-2021, 01:01 PM   #44
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Will do. I'm going to play around with this at the local "rent a lift" place, which I used to change the transmission fluid and bevel gear fluid. Much easier than jack stands and crawling under the car...
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