Rear Drivers Wheel Squeak Pls Help

Icycharizard · 10-06-2023, 04:24 PM

Hi, 2016 bmw x1 f48, drivers side rear wheel squeaks after it gets hot. It’s fine in the mornings, but when I drive home from work the past week, the wheel heats up to approx 15-20 degrees F hotter than all the other wheels. I also hear a squeaking sound at low speed like when I’m coming to a stop or driving off from a stop (brakes NOT applied) after I get close to the end of my commute home when the wheel is at approx 116°F with other wheels at 85-95°F. I’ve taken the wheel off and inspected the brakes pads, rotor, and looked around for rocks or piece of metal debris in the caliper. I’m stumped. I can’t find anything. Any ideas? This could be bad because the local DIY shops in Seattle just got bought out, so I’m SOL if it’s something serious. I really don’t see anything in the pad or contacting the rotor. No signs of scrapping metal or debris inside the wheel rim. No electronic parking brake faults at all. I just changed rear brakes 3000 miles ago before a 2500 mile road trip to CA and it performed amazing on the trip. So now I’m confused as to what this is.

Any ideas?

mrpingu · 10-07-2023, 02:26 AM

Probably the wheel bearing if it is not the brakes.

Icycharizard · 10-09-2023, 03:15 PM

Turns out it is a siezed caliper. It won’t move at all. Shop is quoting me a fucking arm and a leg to fix it. $1900 because they want to replace the caliper, rotor, and pads and it won’t come in for several days waiting on parts.

I have found this X1 to be great but the reliability has been a crap shoot. Def not a 3 series. Anyone’s thoughts on this?

mrpingu · 10-09-2023, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Icycharizard

Turns out it is a siezed caliper. It won’t move at all. Shop is quoting me a fucking arm and a leg to fix it. $1900 because they want to replace the caliper, rotor, and pads and it won’t come in for several days waiting on parts.

I have found this X1 to be great but the reliability has been a crap shoot. Def not a 3 series. Anyone’s thoughts on this?

Caliper is bad luck, never replaced one in my life. Drive cars til 200k.

3 series are not that much better, only the motor mounts are

Icycharizard · 10-09-2023, 05:53 PM

I will replace the caliper as it is completely siezed. I only changed the brake pads 3000 miles ago, and the rotor looks fine. Do I really need to replace those? The tech said the inner pad slipped, so I will likely replace the pads, but what about the rotor? It looks fine. Techs are always just telling people to replace rotors when they go back and they're a solid hunk of metal that just goes to waste.

ALSO, can I simply replace the caliper housing and piston? The electronic parking brake solenoid appears to be working as advertised with no faults. It is audible and sounds normal when I engage and retract it. I must replace the caliper though. Anything special to consider when trying to mate the two?

BLEEDING the brakes, can I do this at home or do I need a machine?

rice_rocket88 · 10-10-2023, 01:02 PM

I would also chaulk it up to bad luck.. my personal experience I just had a front caliper fail on our 240K mile odyssey.. so I'm game it's done it's job. I've also done it for maybe 2 other friends. It happens.. bad luck.

If you have no time to do this yourself, you're at the mercy of whomever is doing the job. If you do have time, you can get calipers and parts from rockauto really really cheap. You can evaluate yourself if you need new rotors at the same time. If they look smooth and flat enough, then I wouldn't. At the same time I think a rotor can be had for like $50 so I might just call it a day and do it together. I'm also pretty sure that the e parking brake is an add on, and a new caliper would not come with this on.

You can bleed the brakes all on your own at home. I can't remember the size wrench you'll need though.. it's an odd size that I ordered a wrench for the next time I do the brakes. Maybe 9 or 11 mm? In order to do the pads yourself a tool to send the brake pads into service mode would be nice.. or else unbolting the ebrake physically would work too.. seeing as you'll have to do it anyways to swap the caliper.

10-06-2023, 04:24 PM	#1
Icycharizard Private 5 Rep 52 Posts Drives: BMW X1 Join Date: Jul 2022 Location: Seattle iTrader: (0)	Rear Drivers Wheel Squeak Pls Help Hi, 2016 bmw x1 f48, drivers side rear wheel squeaks after it gets hot. It’s fine in the mornings, but when I drive home from work the past week, the wheel heats up to approx 15-20 degrees F hotter than all the other wheels. I also hear a squeaking sound at low speed like when I’m coming to a stop or driving off from a stop (brakes NOT applied) after I get close to the end of my commute home when the wheel is at approx 116°F with other wheels at 85-95°F. I’ve taken the wheel off and inspected the brakes pads, rotor, and looked around for rocks or piece of metal debris in the caliper. I’m stumped. I can’t find anything. Any ideas? This could be bad because the local DIY shops in Seattle just got bought out, so I’m SOL if it’s something serious. I really don’t see anything in the pad or contacting the rotor. No signs of scrapping metal or debris inside the wheel rim. No electronic parking brake faults at all. I just changed rear brakes 3000 miles ago before a 2500 mile road trip to CA and it performed amazing on the trip. So now I’m confused as to what this is. Any ideas?
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

10-07-2023, 02:26 AM	#2
mrpingu Captain 186 Rep 608 Posts Drives: 2018 F48 X1 xDrive 18D Join Date: Nov 2022 Location: Norway iTrader: (0) Garage List 2018 BMW X1 (F48) [10.00]	Probably the wheel bearing if it is not the brakes.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-09-2023, 03:15 PM	#3
Icycharizard Private 5 Rep 52 Posts Drives: BMW X1 Join Date: Jul 2022 Location: Seattle iTrader: (0)	Turns out it is a siezed caliper. It won’t move at all. Shop is quoting me a fucking arm and a leg to fix it. $1900 because they want to replace the caliper, rotor, and pads and it won’t come in for several days waiting on parts. I have found this X1 to be great but the reliability has been a crap shoot. Def not a 3 series. Anyone’s thoughts on this?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-09-2023, 05:53 PM	#5
Icycharizard Private 5 Rep 52 Posts Drives: BMW X1 Join Date: Jul 2022 Location: Seattle iTrader: (0)	I will replace the caliper as it is completely siezed. I only changed the brake pads 3000 miles ago, and the rotor looks fine. Do I really need to replace those? The tech said the inner pad slipped, so I will likely replace the pads, but what about the rotor? It looks fine. Techs are always just telling people to replace rotors when they go back and they're a solid hunk of metal that just goes to waste. ALSO, can I simply replace the caliper housing and piston? The electronic parking brake solenoid appears to be working as advertised with no faults. It is audible and sounds normal when I engage and retract it. I must replace the caliper though. Anything special to consider when trying to mate the two? BLEEDING the brakes, can I do this at home or do I need a machine?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-10-2023, 01:02 PM	#6
rice_rocket88 Major 303 Rep 1,084 Posts Drives: E60 F48 F39 Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: Boston iTrader: (0)	I would also chaulk it up to bad luck.. my personal experience I just had a front caliper fail on our 240K mile odyssey.. so I'm game it's done it's job. I've also done it for maybe 2 other friends. It happens.. bad luck. If you have no time to do this yourself, you're at the mercy of whomever is doing the job. If you do have time, you can get calipers and parts from rockauto really really cheap. You can evaluate yourself if you need new rotors at the same time. If they look smooth and flat enough, then I wouldn't. At the same time I think a rotor can be had for like $50 so I might just call it a day and do it together. I'm also pretty sure that the e parking brake is an add on, and a new caliper would not come with this on. You can bleed the brakes all on your own at home. I can't remember the size wrench you'll need though.. it's an odd size that I ordered a wrench for the next time I do the brakes. Maybe 9 or 11 mm? In order to do the pads yourself a tool to send the brake pads into service mode would be nice.. or else unbolting the ebrake physically would work too.. seeing as you'll have to do it anyways to swap the caliper.
	Appreciate 0 Quote