05-07-2021, 08:29 AM | #1 |
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BMW X1 - Long cranking before it starts
recently our X1 cranks for few secs (5- 8secs) before starting and you have to hold down the start button for few seconds for it to kick in and start.
I haven't been getting any error messages or battery issues. I was wondering if anyone has experienced the same and or knows what this issue could be. Car is less than 5yrs old and has been always serviced on time by the dealer. Could this be battery, fuel pump, earthing issue? Any quick fixes? Thanks in advance. |
05-08-2021, 09:04 AM | #7 |
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Cisco, if the vehicle hasn't been driven enough in the recent past few months, if I were you, I'd fully charge the battery with a trickle charger and see if the symptoms persist.
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05-08-2021, 10:02 AM | #8 |
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Could it just be, if you have a petrol engine, that the spark plugs need to be replaced? You don’t say what engine yours has, but plugs are usually changed (in the UK) at the second service, which is more comprehensive than first service. What does it show in the breakdown of what you paid for?
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05-08-2021, 08:09 PM | #9 |
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ours is a diesel, I replaced it with a Varta gel battery, much better then OEM, it was slow to crank after being parked overnight and would drain quickly if you sat in the car listening to the radio with the engine off.No warning messages at all
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05-09-2021, 09:18 PM | #13 |
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Do you keep anything plugged into the USB ports or cigarette lighter when the vehicle is parked? Sounds like you have a slow drain or the battery wasn't registered properly / the ECU doesn't know the true state of charge and stops charging the battery prematurely. Our vehicles have a clutch on the alternator so it's not always charging the battery. Only when the computer deems it necessary.
Otherwise it could be that when you unlock the doors the fuel pump isn't priming / sending fuel to the engine. If it's cold right now, could also be your glo plugs. |
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05-10-2021, 03:07 PM | #14 |
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The cigarette lighter/power outlet (and probably the USB port) turns off after a few minutes. I leave a $10 voltmeter/USB charger plugged in all the time and the voltmeter display turns off when power goes.
cisco9090, you can buy one of these to see if the battery voltage is above 12V before starting the car. When you crank the engine, if the voltage drops below 11V, then the battery is probably the problem. The car needs to be driven regularly to maintain the battery. I did not and had to replace the battery for $$ a few months ago. No glow plugs in a petrol/gasoline engine. |
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05-11-2021, 06:03 AM | #15 |
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Nothing is plugged in. I have stopped using AC and stopped charging my phone or using the heated seats.
So on the weekend I drove for 30 mins out parked the car at the shops for 10 mins came back and it wouldnt start. Called the Road side assistance and they came and said it seems to be battery issue and needs a battery replacement. They gave me a jump start. I drove home parked it for couple of days. Yesterday tried to start the car no issues it started all fine. Same thing happened today it started without any issues. It has happened few times where it cranks for few secs before it starts or you have to wait for 15-20 mins before you give it another go. Seems bit weird to be a battery issue. No warning/error messages. What are your thoughts. |
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05-11-2021, 08:45 AM | #16 |
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Have the battery LOAD TESTED. Load test will tell you if the battery is good or not. If the load test proves the battery is good, then you can focus your diagnostic effort on other components (such as starter, bad ground connection, or something else...)
or... we can go round and round in circles... :-) |
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05-11-2021, 08:59 PM | #17 |
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I've had this issue on my E39 previously where the battery connector wasn't fully seated. Visually it looked fine but it wasn't fully tight. There was always enough connection to run the lights and radio and everything just fine. But intermittently the car didn't have enough amps to start. Other times it was just fine.
But the E39 was also a simpler machine. All signs point to a battery issue. Have it load tested and possibly reseated if it tests fine. |
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05-12-2021, 12:21 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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05-27-2021, 03:23 AM | #19 |
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xlr8it Hey mate the dealer confirm its a battery. $740 for part and labour with 2yrs warranty and new battery programming or $140 for just installation of battery.
Similar battery with 2yrs installation with NRMA is offered for $375 and they are going to program it. Question is, Should I go with NRMA and trust they will program the new battery and now cause any issues to ECU. OR buy the battery from NRMA and pay $140 to BMW to get it installed. How good are the NRMA branded batteries? |
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05-27-2021, 06:45 AM | #20 |
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Drives: F33 430 and F39 M35i
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Buy the battery and register it yourself. There's no $140 of programming to do.
There are apps (bimmerlink) that do it and i can't remember the others. but bimmerlink and bimmercode are worth their price. the same adapter can be used for both. |
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05-27-2021, 09:10 AM | #21 |
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chowser51 - NRMA is membership based service here in Aus. They provide you roadside assistance and battery replacement (battery, install and program for $400) or just the battery byself for $400
In that case I'll get them to do the whole job. Only thing I wasn't sure was the quality of their batteries as they provide only 2yrs warranty. Though BMW is also offering 2yrs warranty on their (Varta) battery. Usually Varta batteries has 36 months warranty. |
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05-27-2021, 10:27 AM | #22 |
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For me, I would spend the extra money to have the dealer do everything. Actually, that's what I did 5 months ago.
After spending $$$ on buying the car and on other expenses (insurance, gas, maintenance, etc.), my piece of mind to have the correct battery and programming is worth the extra $ when amortized over 2-3 years. |
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bmw x1 f48, long crank, start issue |
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