[tranquility]

Every now and then, when I DIY, I encounter some disgustingly STUCK lug bolt(s) that even my impact wrench cannot dislodge, so I have to scramble over to a mechanic to have it professionally removed.

Maybe I'm partly to blame because I just change my tires, I don't scrub anything or put whatever grease or whatever cuz I don't bother/don't think it matters much. However, if you have any pointers, please lemme know.

I'm thinking the main reason they are stuck is because the shop just over-tightened the bolts (even though I ALWAYS tell them the tq spec and that I DIY, they just don't care argh). My wheels were last handled by a shop who changed all 4 tires, but before I go off on them, my 2 front wheels were perfectly fine and I removed them w ease, but my 2 rear ones were stuck, so I would assume they put them all on properly and it has something to do w the moving wheels vs non-moving, unless they got 2 separate guys putting back the wheels? What do you think is more likely?

How many of you guys change your own tires and can give me any advice? Maybe sometimes the bolts being stuck is unavoidable?

[BMWCCA1]

I remove and install my own wheels but—unless it's on my BMW bikes—I do not have the equipment to change my own tires.

[Anderson11]

When I change my wheels I put a some anti seize about the size of an eraser head on the tip of the bolt. Classic star tightening pattern. Torque to spec and check after 50 miles. I have never had a problem removing.

[tranquility]

Originally Posted by Anderson11

When I change my wheels I put a some anti seize about the size of an eraser head on the tip of the bolt. Classic star tightening pattern. Torque to spec and check after 50 miles. I have never had a problem removing.

On the tip because as it's threaded it will spread to the threads, is that the reasoning?

I don't wanna buy the wrong thing and find out afterwards it's a loosener and my bolts go flying off LOL. What are you using exactly? Tx.

[G MONEY]

Originally Posted by tranquility

On the tip because as it's threaded it will spread to the threads, is that the reasoning?

I don't wanna buy the wrong thing and find out afterwards it's a loosener and my bolts go flying off LOL. What are you using exactly? Tx.

Something like this. Will make removing much much easier

[Anderson11]

Originally Posted by tranquility

On the tip because as it's threaded it will spread to the threads, is that the reasoning?

I don't wanna buy the wrong thing and find out afterwards it's a loosener and my bolts go flying off LOL. What are you using exactly? Tx.

It's such a small amount it pretty much stays right near the tip. It won't loosen. I have never had an issue. The key is tightening the bolts correctly by the star pattern. I am anal when it comes to the correct torque. I check every couple of months.

[tranquility]

Originally Posted by Anderson11

It's such a small amount it pretty much stays right near the tip. It won't loosen. I have never had an issue. The key is tightening the bolts correctly by the star pattern. I am anal when it comes to the correct torque. I check every couple of months.

Ok, so what causes the seizing/my bolts getting stuck? I just assume it's something happening to the threads? Should the grease thing go there too? I'm confuse why only the tip, is that where the seizing usually occurs?

[grannyknot]

Just to add to these good tips, remove your wheels from the car and take them separately for a tire change, then bring them back put the wheels on yourself.
Lug nuts and studs need to be cleaned every now and then, a wire wheel and an old tooth brush with some brake cleaner, the only stuck nuts or studs I have encountered were due to rust or lack of proper maintenance.
You can't achieve a proper torque if the threads are gooed up with old grease and dirt.

[grannyknot]

Originally Posted by tranquility

Ok, so what causes the seizing/my bolts getting stuck? I just assume it's something happening to the threads? Should the grease thing go there too? I'm confuse why only the tip, is that where the seizing usually occurs?

Lug nuts and studs get old and worn out like any other bolt especially considering the high torque they see.
If in doubt replace them, they're not expensive.

[chassis]

Originally Posted by tranquility

Every now and then, when I DIY, I encounter some disgustingly STUCK lug bolt(s) that even my impact wrench cannot dislodge, so I have to scramble over to a mechanic to have it professionally removed.

Maybe I'm partly to blame because I just change my tires, I don't scrub anything or put whatever grease or whatever cuz I don't bother/don't think it matters much. However, if you have any pointers, please lemme know.

I'm thinking the main reason they are stuck is because the shop just over-tightened the bolts (even though I ALWAYS tell them the tq spec and that I DIY, they just don't care argh). My wheels were last handled by a shop who changed all 4 tires, but before I go off on them, my 2 front wheels were perfectly fine and I removed them w ease, but my 2 rear ones were stuck, so I would assume they put them all on properly and it has something to do w the moving wheels vs non-moving, unless they got 2 separate guys putting back the wheels? What do you think is more likely?

How many of you guys change your own tires and can give me any advice? Maybe sometimes the bolts being stuck is unavoidable?

Get a bigger impact wrench. Use a torque wrench. Never use lubricant on threaded joints where a torque is specified. Never.

[G MONEY]

Originally Posted by tranquility

Ok, so what causes the seizing/my bolts getting stuck? I just assume it's something happening to the threads? Should the grease thing go there too? I'm confuse why only the tip, is that where the seizing usually occurs?

A smidge of Never seize goes a long way. It will get in the threads as you spin the lugs on. I use it all the time at work on way bigger studs/nuts and way higher torque and heat. They will always come off if you use it

[tranquility]

Silly question, where do you buy your lug bolts? I bought my 1st replacement from BMW, but wondering if can get better quality/cheaper/etc?

[chris719]

Originally Posted by tranquility

On the tip because as it's threaded it will spread to the threads, is that the reasoning?

I don't wanna buy the wrong thing and find out afterwards it's a loosener and my bolts go flying off LOL. What are you using exactly? Tx.

Don't use anti-seize or anything on the bolt or threads, sorry, ignore any advice that says you should here. They are getting stuck because they are overtorqued, bottom line (as long as they aren't cross-threaded anyway). I haven't used any anti-seize or anything on lug bolts / nuts for any of my cars and I am in the Northeast and they salt aggressively here, and I have zero problems. The BMW torque spec is a DRY spec.

Get a 2 ft or 0.5m+ breaker bar and use that.

[________]

Originally Posted by chris719

Don't use anti-seize or anything on the bolt or threads, sorry, ignore any advice that says you should here. They are getting stuck because they are overtorqued, bottom line (as long as they aren't cross-threaded anyway). I haven't used any anti-seize or anything on lug bolts / nuts for any of my cars and I am in the Northeast and they salt aggressively here, and I have zero problems. The BMW torque spec is a DRY spec.

Get a 2 ft or 0.5m+ breaker bar and use that.

This.
Never even heard of a bolt getting stuck.
If you take your car to a shop, loosen the bolts and tighten them to spec yourself.
They should actually feel somewhat “loose” when you need them off next time, compared to what shops/non-torque wrench folks do. People usually over-tighten bolts, and that is why we use a torque-wrench.

Funny how most people think a torque wrench is used to TIGHTEN more… maybe because of the name of the tool lol

[chassis]

Originally Posted by tranquility

Silly question, where do you buy your lug bolts? I bought my 1st replacement from BMW, but wondering if can get better quality/cheaper/etc?

Dealer.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Onesie

This.
Never even heard of a bolt getting stuck.
If you take your car to a shop, loosen the bolts and tighten them to spec yourself.
They should actually feel somewhat “loose” when you need them off next time, compared to what shops/non-torque wrench folks do. People usually over-tighten bolts, and that is why we use a torque-wrench.

Funny how most people think a torque wrench is used to TIGHTEN more… maybe because of the name of the tool lol

I once had to stand and jump / bounce on the end of a 2 foot breaker bar to undo the work of a local tire chain. It's pretty amazing that generic hardware tolerates being torqued to like 500+ ft-lbs without obvious consequences.

[tranquility]

Originally Posted by chris719

Don't use anti-seize or anything on the bolt or threads, sorry, ignore any advice that says you should here. They are getting stuck because they are overtorqued, bottom line (as long as they aren't cross-threaded anyway). I haven't used any anti-seize or anything on lug bolts / nuts for any of my cars and I am in the Northeast and they salt aggressively here, and I have zero problems. The BMW torque spec is a DRY spec.

Get a 2 ft or 0.5m+ breaker bar and use that.

Oh crap, so pretty much the shop probably had 2 guys working on my wheels and that dude that did the rear set went nuts? I explicitly told them to only tq to 85

Should I just keep at it w my electric torque wrench? I don't wanna buy more stuff (tq bar). I'm not sure if I'll be damaging anything?

[________]

You don’t have a 2-feet bar? It’s like 15 bucks, no?

Be careful with it though, if a bolt is really stuck this thing might shear its head off. Better to hit the bolt as hard as you can with a mallet a few times before trying to taking it off.

[tranquility]

Originally Posted by Onesie

You don’t have a 2-feet bar? It’s like 15 bucks, no?

Be careful with it though, if a bolt is really stuck this thing might shear its head off. Better to hit the bolt as hard as you can with a mallet a few times before trying to taking it off.

Please explain to me like a layman. Would the 2-ft bar be better than me going at it w my electric torque wrench?

I just checked my bills, @#$#$!$ it wasn't when I had my tires done, but afterwards when I did my rear brakes. Just cuz I forgot to remind them they freaking overtorqued it. Now that explains why my fronts were fine and my rears were not.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by tranquility

Please explain to me like a layman. Would the 2-ft bar be better than me going at it w my electric torque wrench?

I just checked my bills, @#$#$!$ it wasn't when I had my tires done, but afterwards when I did my rear brakes. Just cuz I forgot to remind them they freaking overtorqued it. Now that explains why my fronts were fine and my rears were not.

If it's a battery powered impact wrench it probably can't generate as much torque as you can with a long bar. Depends on the model. It's also not possible to get any feel with that vs the bar.

[tranquility]

My impact wrench plugs into a wall and apparently maxes at 350lb-ft...they couldn't have possibly tightened over that, right? I'm confused unless my wrench's specs are wrong, how the hell can 350lb-ft of power from my wrench not be enough to remove those bolts?

[StanDiego]

Originally Posted by Onesie

You don’t have a 2-feet bar? It’s like 15 bucks, no?

Be careful with it though, if a bolt is really stuck this thing might shear its head off. Better to hit the bolt as hard as you can with a mallet a few times before trying to taking it off.

I've got one of those but feel much safer using an electric or battery powered impact wrench to loosen (not tighten), believe I'm less likely to break off a bolt.