09-15-2020, 02:37 PM | #67 |
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So the one last kicker is that the best way to get connection via blue tooth is the software, which you have to pay another $30 on the play store/app store. The app itself is super awesome and just so easy compared to the computer. I suppose you could just use your computer to bluetooth connect it too.
I guess they now feel that the 3psi will work, although I am in MA with 93/94 octane all day long and my car didn't like it. The jb4 itself was supposed to have a warmup mode.. ie not full boost etc before it's warmed up. Maybe Terry fixed it up a little bit, but when I hit full boost before then it put it into the safe mode. At that point it was lower boost, but still plenty fast. It goes back into default mode after you restart the car. Or.. if you have your phone logging then you can simply put it back to the right map. So I would say drive it exactly how you want to, but no full wide open throttle's. Give it a try with the map1 and see what happens, the worst case honestly is that it will bump it into failsafe mode. I think I'll email Terry out of curiosity to see if he has looked into these things again. |
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09-15-2020, 02:59 PM | #68 |
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i am gonna buy the app, but thanks for mentioning it. i had read about it online prior to purchasing the unit.
also, important to note is that i have the CARB unit as i'm in california (we also only have 91 here as our premium fuel) and i'm not sure what version of what software that has on it, but i know that the unit cannot be updated because a certain version of the software was CARB-certified by executive order at some point in time. i definitely do not drive the car WOT. i drive normally around town, but i'd like a bit more pickup and go from time to time but even then it's never WOT. i just don't drive that way. on the other hand, i don't drive like a grandma either clearly as i'm buying this unit, but you know, a little extra is always welcomed. i'll play around with it, but i'll start out with map 1 at 3psi over stock. the website states that the default is actually map 2 at 4psi over stock which people with the lesser model x2s can handle, but i just don't know if this engine can handle that. i'm kind of thinking that perhaps i won't even notice if it kicks the car back into its default setting whenever it feels it needs to to protect the engine. i mean, as long as there are no CELs and it's not going into limp mode, well then i might not even notice as the car is quick enough as it is, but again, it just comes down to how much quicker the unit makes the car in ideal conditions which appear to temperature dependent based on your experience. either way, thanks and i'll keep you updated and i definitely might need your help lol
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09-15-2020, 03:03 PM | #69 |
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also, if you email terry, please let me know what he says. i'm kinda thinking that it won't apply to me anyway as i bought the CARB version, so i'm stuck with whatever the state certified at some point ago.'
and last question - because i think i have the ability to return the item or even cancel it, do you think that i should or do you think it's worth it regardless of cost?
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09-15-2020, 04:20 PM | #70 |
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I have always liked the JB4 for all the options it opens up yet leaves things pretty safe. ECU flashing is pretty awesome, but with all the ECU locking and problems on the horizon JB4 piggyback I think will be the best solution still (while not being caught with this warranty issue). If money was an issue and say.. $300 could be spent elsewhere I would return it for just the JB+ or Dinan at $200 or $250. But let's say a few years down the road it might be advantageous to have the JB4 already. I'll send you a PM.
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09-16-2020, 06:26 AM | #71 | ||
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Quote:
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09-16-2020, 12:26 PM | #72 |
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Thanks for all the posts. Would you agree that 2 PSI added to stock is good and safe enough for JB plus and Dinan, both logged with an app of sorts in regards to boost? For now.
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09-16-2020, 01:31 PM | #73 |
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according to terry burger of bms, 3 and 4 psi over stock parameters are safe.
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09-16-2020, 01:54 PM | #74 |
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are there any (edit: reputable) ecu flash tunes for the m35i? or is it just limited to jb4 and the other lesser options from dinantronics and the jb+?
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09-16-2020, 09:13 PM | #75 |
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09-16-2020, 09:37 PM | #76 |
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yeah, it's gonna take bmw putting this engine into a more marketable model to get more aftermarket attention and support.
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09-17-2020, 05:05 AM | #77 |
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The. Minis here and the 135i overseas will create an aftermarket.
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09-17-2020, 06:38 AM | #78 |
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Sorry, I do not understand this statement! This engine is in an enormous quantity of engines around the world. The B48 engine is a modular engine. For starters, the X1 (f48) in either 3 cylinder or 4 cylinder configuration makes 12% of all BMW vehicles. When you consider all the other BMW models that are made, you will see this is by far the largest slice of their production.
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09-17-2020, 08:12 AM | #79 |
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This engine is different than a regular b48.
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09-17-2020, 09:08 AM | #80 |
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Dinan is working on something, but as with others, no timeline as yet for completion.
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09-17-2020, 09:09 AM | #81 |
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Please qualify your general statement! There is no such thing as a regular b48. The following link does show the logical progression of the b48 for different cars in the BMW inventory and as this link states:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_B48 The BMW B48 is a turbocharged inline-four petrol engine which replaced the BMW N20 and has been in production since 2014. It was first used in the F56 Mini Hatch and has been used in BMW applications since 2015. Additionally it is now in the M135i: https://www.topgear.com/car-reviews/...to/first-drive
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09-17-2020, 10:44 AM | #82 |
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From same article:
This engine features a reinforced crankshaft with larger main bearings and new pistons with a lower 9.5:1 compression ratio. This allows the engine to take more boost pressure from a larger turbocharger, which blows compressed air through a reworked intake tract. The lower compression and completely different turbo will require a unique tune. |
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09-17-2020, 10:54 AM | #83 | |
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There is no such thing as a regular B48 (perhaps you mean the originally built B48) and that is why I quoted the article. The same engine is also in: 2019–present F40 M135i xDrive 2019–present F54 Clubman JCW 2019–present F60 Countryman JCW 2019–present F44 M235i xDrive Gran Coupé 2020–present F56 MINI John Cooper Works GP
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09-17-2020, 11:25 AM | #84 |
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I meant that all other part numbers of b48 share the same parts and basically vary boost to get their ratings. The version in the M35I is built stronger and has unique part numbers, even the exhaust valves are different (shared with i8)
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09-17-2020, 11:28 AM | #85 |
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Ahhhh..... I now understand. The vagaries of the English language.
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09-17-2020, 03:12 PM | #86 |
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rice_rocket88 I installed the unit today. It did not come with the bluetooth connector/dongle, so I installed it without it as the default map is map 2 and I drove it around a bit to see how it drives.
I would call the driving experience OEM+. It's not a huge difference in the way that the TOM's unit provided my previous Lexus IS300 F Sport. What I did notice that was kind of strange was that it initially threw all sorts of errors re: a ton of electrical systems and then they went away. This happened as I began to drive not initially after I started the car. It warned me that one system was calibrating so to drive cautiously and I stopped to let it calibrate and then all of the errors went away. I turned off the car and restarted it and there was nothing. What is different is like it revs very high very quickly if I'm not careful with my foot -- it's almost as if I had installed a throttle response modulator but I didn't and it will hold the revs pretty long and pretty high - not redline high, but pretty damn high for quite a while before it will upshift. The wireless dongle thing comes tomorrow so I guess I can plug that in and change the settings, but honestly I'm going to leave it as is. I mean, I'm going to connect the dongle to the device and set it up with my phone, but I'm not going to change any of the settings because I really just wanted something plug-and-play and this seems to be doing its job although it's still very early to tell. Anyone else with this experiencing anything similar? Is this to be expected and can I run map 2, the default, which is 4psi over stock safely? I'm already thinking longterm and wondering whether or not I should keep this car for the longterm, or just until the warranty expires and then trade it in. I don't want to do damage to the engine and if I am, then I wouldn't want to keep it past the warranty period unless I purchase an extended warranty. Thanks for reading my rant/experiences!
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09-17-2020, 03:22 PM | #87 |
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Great to hear it went well for you! I agree, all my experiences with the JB4 have been massive improvements, but again.. seeing every single piece on any tune of the m35i engine said "30 hp" which I am pretty sure that is it. It's possible that the turbo just is maxed out on airflow. I didn't see the errors/resetting as you mentioned. xcelir8bmw I think that 2psi is fine, as mine is running at 2.5psi more. As I was saying to Davy Jordi, I am not sure if the dinan or JB+ will throw a code or hit boost cut since it is fooling the MAP sensor into giving it more boost. The whole JB4 unit itself, however has a lot more going on so the best would be just to plug it in and log it and see how it goes. Glad you are liking it!
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09-17-2020, 03:35 PM | #88 |
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Yes, it was enjoyable. I emailed BMS to ask if I could leave it on map 2, which would be 4psi over stock, and am awaiting their response. I told them that I have the high-output engine and don't want to ruin the engine in the short or longterm as it's already putting out a significant amount of power with such small displacement numbers.
Again, it is an improvement and again, it does feel like OEM+ more than an actual tune, which I guess is to be expected from just a tuning box, although in all honesty I did expect more as this is the highest map setting that is recommended unless you add bolt-ons or e85 or methanol or something of which I'm not going to do at all. I just wanted something plug-and-play and if this is safe and it doesn't routinely throw me back into stock settings, then yeah, I'd say it's worth it. Also, I think the initial errors were from me disconnecting the battery and the system having to recalibrate. Like it even threw an error for the time and date not being set, so I had to set them in order for that stupid triangle to go away.
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