Yes, we're running the Split Second Turbo Tuner at the moment.
Our issues with the car going into limp mode however are not likely caused by it as the turbo tuner is essentially just a MAP clamp and does not change anything else in the ECU.
However, I could be wrong. I don't want to speculate and possibly give out false info until we're completely sure what's going on here and how we fix it. It's on the top of our list right now as we have another event this weekend.
We were having issues with both traction and heat. I will elaborate more on this after this weekend after we've tested out the changes.
The 18x10 (285 tires) fits the rears fine with the proper offset. The offsets however you will not likely find on any standard wheel from any manufacturer. We run Forgeline wheels and they make each wheel is made to order so you order the offset, they make it. The Forgeline wheels are awesome. The 18x10 wheel weighs about 19 pounds (ours has the titanium fasteners) and are quite durable. I actually had to go offroading in the car on the back desert roads on the way to RobiSpec and the wheels held up great. Hit a couple of big pot holes as I was super tired and still the rims were fine.
With the rears I used up every millimeter of space on the inside. However everything clears. We get a slight rub on the wheel liner, not the metal edge, so we're good. We ran the whole event and drove about 200 miles Saturday night without having the fenders rolled.
The fronts however will not fit in the stock fender. We made our own metal flared fender Friday night before the race and finished it Saturday morning (day of the race). We had to start so late with it as our wheels and tires did not show up until Thursday and I needed the wheels to make sure the fender will clear. 18x10 (285) is about the widest anyone should try to go on the fronts. The wheel gets really close to the inner seam on the door side. I think if you went 11 or even 10.5 in the front and you will hit it. The fender is stitch welded together so the tape is there to cover the seams. After the next race, we're going to take off the fender and make a mold out of it and make it out of dry carbon. That way we can have spares just in case. We may also make it into production and sell them, however I am unsure if there would be enough sales from them. The offset on the fronts put the inner side of the wheel where the OEM wheels sit. I did not want to go deeper into the wheel as it already sit really close to the shock assembly. We were also going to run more camber with our adjustable lower control arms we're developing right now. We're currently using the KW camber/caster plates to adjust camber. So the new wheels stick out about 2.5" out from were the factory wheels are. Take a ruler and measure 2.5" out from your factory front wheels and that's where our wheel and fender flares sit.
I have more pictures showing the fenders that I'll put up when I get them on the computer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MINI135i
Are you using ECU software?
Other "stock" 135i's have not had the "limp mode" problems that you have described from what I have read....of course they are not running the large wheel/tire combos either.
Did you specifically have overheat trouble or just too much grip as you speculated, hence, confusing the cars traction control system?
Lastly, tell us about the fitment of those monster 18x10 wheels?
Thanks!
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn
Great story.. sorry for all the trouble, but it's amazing that you qualified!
I'm baffled how you got 285's up front though. Does it have to do with that blue tape on the front fenders? Is there evidence of some Frankenstein flaring under there? Also, you must be running a TON of camber, even if you flared things.
|