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I started in about 19 hundred and 80. First thing I bought when I got a job as a busboy was a new stick, the surf shop even cashed my check for me.
It was rough learning in the Nard. Guys I went to school with all day were still dicks in the water.
Then I got a job as a civil servant at Pt. Mugu!!!! For 19 years I got to surf some of the best south swells in Cali. DEEEEP submarine canyon just off-shore, coupled with a storm in the window = Huge lefts likened to pipeline, but with a sandy bottom and 55 degree water. And I'm goofy
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