Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop
If further diagnostic help is needed, please indicate the following:
1) When did the car last start and run correctly?
2) What work was done on the car since it last ran correctly other then battery replacement & Sensor replacement?
3) When replacing the battery, did you reconnect the blue connector from the IBS to the BSD bus connector, just above the negative battery terminal? That being disconnected would account for the 2E7C Fault.
4) The codes for Brake Light Switch and Post-Cat O2 sensor on Bank 2 seem unrelated to the "Crank but No-Start" issue. Did you check Freeze Frame Data for mileage (and Engine RPM & Temp) when each code was saved?
5) What scan tool/software do you have, or have access to, for reading codes, FF Data, and Parameters?
George
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Hi George!
So the last time I the car was running properly, was around October. The last work I did on the car was change the oil housing gasket, valve cover gasket, an oil catch can, and the BMS cowl filters. I also changed it to a new IBS connector and made sure it was connected when installing the battery. As for my scan tool/software I used is protools.
So quick update. I pulled out my DME to find that condensation and moisture from recent storms drenched inside of the DME box along with the sensors in it due to the cowl delete.
The connector to the DME was soaked and a pool of water was forming in the plastic of the DME... (live and learn I guess...) I threw the DME into the oven for a brief moment to dry it out. Use a mutimeter to the DME and saw the mosfets wasn't shorted. I put the DME back into my car and it started, but ran extremely rough. I scanned it and this is the results.
I've actually been looking for the DME layout everywhere so I can at least know exactly what values the mosfets should be. Thanks a lot George! Ill update you tomorrow with the build date.