[Shawnalston10]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

QUESTIONS:

1) When it "would take a while for my car to crank" do you mean (a) that the Starter had to crank the engine LONGER than normal (more than a second or two) before the engine "fired" or started, OR that the Starter did NOT immediately start to crank or turn the engine when the START button was pressed?

2) I assume that at the golf course, the Starter would NOT crank or turn the engine at all, and now after replacing the Starter, that same condition continues?

3) What, if any, sound did you hear at golf course when you pushed START? Was there any click, either single click, or a "ratchet-like" click of 5 or more clicks in rapid succession? If any click noted, WHERE did click come from, Starter or JB (Junction Box/ Fuse Box at glovebox)?

4) Same questions as (3) when you try to start NOW?

5) Is car Automatic Transmission (AT) or Manual Transmission (MT)?

6) Do you have a Multimeter to read battery voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals? If so, what is battery voltage BEFORE attempting to engage Starter? What is battery voltage immediately AFTER attempting to engage Starter? All measurements at the Jumpstart Terminals under hood & NOT at battery in trunk.

7) Do you know anyone with INPA or ISTA on their laptop who could take a few minutes to connect to your 335i & read some diagnostic screens?

INPA will quickly tell you if the required signals from (1) AT Gear Position P/N, (2) Brake Light Switch, or (3) Clutch Switch are being received by the CAS Module. CAS MUST receive those applicable signals to send START signal to Starter. It will also tell you if CAS is sending the Start Signal to the Starter Solenoid (Terminal 50 Active).

If you don't have a multimeter, you can get one at HFT (Harbor Freight Tools) for ~ $6. OR, you can use Hidden Menu 9.00 to read "System Voltage" which is battery voltage when engine is NOT running, or Alternator Output Voltage when engine running:
http://e90.wikifoundry.com/page/BC+hidden+menus

Checking battery voltage Before & After attempted Starter Activation is using the Starter to perform a load test on your battery, IF CAS is activating Starter, and if Battery Voltage goes from 12V+ to about 10V when load is applied, you have a "bad cell" or internal fault in the battery.

There are some other tricks & tests you can do, even if you don't have INPA, so let us know the answers to the questions above, and do NOT just throw parts at it.

George

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

QUESTIONS:

1) When it "would take a while for my car to crank" do you mean (a) that the Starter had to crank the engine LONGER than normal (more than a second or two) before the engine "fired" or started, OR that the Starter did NOT immediately start to crank or turn the engine when the START button was pressed?

2) I assume that at the golf course, the Starter would NOT crank or turn the engine at all, and now after replacing the Starter, that same condition continues?

3) What, if any, sound did you hear at golf course when you pushed START? Was there any click, either single click, or a "ratchet-like" click of 5 or more clicks in rapid succession? If any click noted, WHERE did click come from, Starter or JB (Junction Box/ Fuse Box at glovebox)?

4) Same questions as (3) when you try to start NOW?

5) Is car Automatic Transmission (AT) or Manual Transmission (MT)?

6) Do you have a Multimeter to read battery voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals? If so, what is battery voltage BEFORE attempting to engage Starter? What is battery voltage immediately AFTER attempting to engage Starter? All measurements at the Jumpstart Terminals under hood & NOT at battery in trunk.

7) Do you know anyone with INPA or ISTA on their laptop who could take a few minutes to connect to your 335i & read some diagnostic screens?

INPA will quickly tell you if the required signals from (1) AT Gear Position P/N, (2) Brake Light Switch, or (3) Clutch Switch are being received by the CAS Module. CAS MUST receive those applicable signals to send START signal to Starter. It will also tell you if CAS is sending the Start Signal to the Starter Solenoid (Terminal 50 Active).

If you don't have a multimeter, you can get one at HFT (Harbor Freight Tools) for ~ $6. OR, you can use Hidden Menu 9.00 to read "System Voltage" which is battery voltage when engine is NOT running, or Alternator Output Voltage when engine running:
http://e90.wikifoundry.com/page/BC+hidden+menus

Checking battery voltage Before & After attempted Starter Activation is using the Starter to perform a load test on your battery, IF CAS is activating Starter, and if Battery Voltage goes from 12V+ to about 10V when load is applied, you have a "bad cell" or internal fault in the battery.

There are some other tricks & tests you can do, even if you don't have INPA, so let us know the answers to the questions above, and do NOT just throw parts at it.

George

#1 the starter had to crank the engine longer than that usual

#2 correct. Nothing changed after replacing the starter

#3 there is one single click that comes from inside the engine bay (not sure where)

#4 is still does the exact same click from the engine bay with the new starter

#5 automatic transmission

#6 I do not have a multimeter but I will go buy one and test it today.

#7 I do not know anyone with ISTA or INPA