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Haha.. you know what? The beauty of the plastidip is that it slowly fills up those blemishes.. so you could just hit it with some sandpaper to get the initial texture down and plastidip it over it. Honestly it is easier to do the plastidip after the tires are on so that the poor tire guy doesn't have to worry about scuffing the plastidip off.
This is the third time I have done plastidip on wheels and the first time I ordered the "kit" and followed all the rules. I don't like that method, as I'm sure I screwed that up... Here's my tips: 1) it's way easier to deal with overspray by simply using some fat painters tape and taping off the rubber to the wheels vs rubbing the "anti stick" stuff on the tires which I did.. it helped, but it wasn't that great. 2)when they tell you to start with dusting coats.. this is really important, I basically kept on dusting the wheels as my thick coats I tended to get a little bit of running. Easily remedied by the next round to go lighter on the running areas.
3) It really is better/easier to prop the wheels up against the wall (and I used a tarp with some large cardboard). I had done a set of wheels on the ground and although it also came out pretty good.. not as well as the 45 degree angle for sure.
I also only used barely 2 out of the 5 cans that I was supplied. I know that if I layed the outer edge way more thick on the overspray it would have been easier to take off.. but that's a whack ton of paint and purposely overspraying it! If you're going flat black you can go to home depot and the paint is really cheap. This brass monkey stuff is like 3X more expensive. You can also apply the "glossifier" and other things to the classic plastidip, but you CANNOT use those with these specialty hyperdip paints for the wheels. Oh .. and a $10 paint gun attachment is definitely great. I've had these little plastic things kicking around forever and it helps when you're doing so much spray can painting.
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